Finding the best in South America: ZUMBI dos Palmares

Finding the best in South America: ZUMBI dos Palmares

http://www.quilombodospalmares.org.br/

ZUMBI dos Palmares

Rei Zumbi dos Palmares: Saia do Mar, MarinheiroSeleção - "Mineirinho, o Poeta" e "Pai Zumbi, o Rei dos Palmares"Zumbi dos Palmares (Biblioteca Literatura moderna)

The Palmares memorial park is the principal attraction of north central Alagoas and has been a central organisational node of northeastern cultural progress for centuries. From a purely historical perspective Palmares holds strength and weight for being the first free republic of the Americas. Around 1580, an African princess Aqualtune escaped from slavery and established ‘Quilombo dos Palmares’ at the top of some hills currently known as ‘Serra de Barriga’. It is easily accessible from all neighbouring states and cities with the city, União dos Palmares being just a few kilometres from the Memorial Park.

There are fantastic features to the park with pre-recorded listening points in addition to original lakes, trees and ceremonial sites, true to original architecturally designed buildings representing the structures found at archeological excavations throughout the region and the park has a real feeling of its ancestors’ society. Many of the trees are known to have been preserved since the original society was created and it is highly recommended to find a good guide like Carlos who led me through centuries of history and emanated the best of contemporary rural northeastern Brazilian society. 

This free society grew to become a self sufficient sustainable ‘black republic’ occupying a massive area of land spanning hundreds of square kilometres, leaving a thin 20 kilometre strip of coastal land for the Portuguese colonialist society. It is known that the Afrocentric society consisted of dozens of hilltop village locations from where all the surrounding lands were commanded and it is thought that the society was really multiracial thus amassing knowledge and expertise from indigenous and European cultures. The peoples of Palmares resisted the Portuguese and Dutch attacks for centuries and prospered independently from the Eurocentric mercantile coastal societies of colonialist Europe. It is imagined that there were practical reasons for trade and negotiation between the societies but perhaps unsurprisingly from the knowledge and culture of the quilombos’ descendents and from the archeological and historic evidence, much of the practical daily living of the maroon republic was most strongly influenced by indigenous Amerindian civilisation and most probably syncretised all of the contributors’ influences.

There are many contemporary examples of cultural heritage owed to the ancient free civilization of the Palmares, such as ‘capoeira’, an African martial artform now most ostensibly promoted by Brazilians worldwide, ‘coco de roda’, an enveloping musical form most popularly found during the June party season and ‘guerreiro’ another more regimented dance style with accompanying music. ‘Coco de Roda’ is fast evolving with electro and hiphop influences clearly appearing in its most modern musical formats, although the dance styles and clothing have maintained a more traditional appearance. At many ‘festas juninhas’ you’ll be able to appreciate all realm of musical styles, many of which appear to be incredibly mixed with everything from the Caribbean to the tip of Patagonia. Many of the month’s festivities are community events which are usually fun and open for all to participate, especially if you befriend locals as the evening proceeds. A genuine ‘arraial’ is a party to rival any you’ve witnessed before but I can assure you that the smaller your group the better and that going alone really does have benefits.

In addition to those cultural delights there is an enormously delicious choice of culinary standards to be appreciated in northeastern Brasil challenging most European culinary traditions and these have also mostly been inspired from African and Amerindian cultures. Without listing details of dishes to experiment, close to or in União dos Palmares there are several restaurants, especially of note are ‘O Tapiocão’ and ‘Churrascaria Afro Brasil’.

The neighbouring towns and villages are well worth a visit, especially Quebrangulo and Palmeiras dos Indios, although it is a good thing to remember this is mostly a rural society with its own strong traditions and respecting the people whose land you are visiting is an essential starter as it should be everywhere you go as a tourist. There are museums of literary icons, such as Graciliano Ramos, who was also the leading politician in Palmeiras dos Indios for several terms of office, and Jorge de Lima, who resided and wrote in Uniâo for much of his life.

“Serra de Barriga! Barriga de negramina! As outras montanhas se cobrem de neves, de noiva, de nuvens de verde! E tu, de Loanda, de panos-da-costa, de Argolas, de contas, de quilombos! Serra de Barriga! Te vejo da casa em que nasci. que medo danado de negro fujão!“ Jorge de Lima.