Finding the best in South America

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Chochís

There are several reasons why Chochís holds a place close to my heart. Admittedly, it is partly because of an adorable brown Labrador, Sussuarana, which my life partner and I were forced to abandon there when we migrated back to Brasil. Well, that median-sized, family dog was a sixth of the second generation I had bred and she had also given a third generation. She was always adaptable to wherever I and Thalita were. So, having written that, I abandoned her, I have misled you because in actual fact I sought a new home for her and in all honesty, a good new owner. And it was in Chochís that her path was eternally altered with Rosi and her lovely family, who live near the trainline and station that serves the small town, Chochís. And Sussuarana is certainly closer to some kind of doggie nadir there than she was with us in the bustling capital of the region, Santa Cruz city!

The reasons for interest in Chochís, Santa Cruz de la Sierra, to you as my readers, are multifold. Firstly, its accessibility via the ‘oriental’ trainline which traverses the region east-west/west-east. Secondly, the natural beauty of the town and its surrounds is astounding. Thirdly, a mystical aspect that may give spiritual peace and if you go to find out for yourselves, you may find many more reasons to visit charming little Chochís.

This photo shows the landscape around the town on the trail towards the rock outcrop that forms a natural tower of rock that has been sculpted naturally through geological time. Although the redrock tower has stood there for time immemorial, only recently the base of the rock pedestal has received a kind of temple. The monastery is one of many Christian centres distributed around the world as a strand of Christianity slightly differentiated from Franciscan or Dominican realms. The result is a charming building with a central chapel and red rock structure with marvellous wooden roofing, interiors and innumerous wooden carved pillars. Not only have the walls been constructed with sustainably sourced sandstone rocks from the local escarpments but the hardwoods are also locally carved by the local, talented craftsmen. Along with several village ‘missiones’ to the north, this region is recognised for having the world’s best woodcarved churches. The UN have declared them World Heritage Sites.

But it wasn’t the slightly incongruous monastery, which sits in relative luxury above the town itself which gave me spiritual inspiration. Although it is only an easy half hour walk from Chochís, most people drive up, including the hired musicians and entourages, who appeared on the Mayday labour bank holiday weekend on which I visited, there´s a certain feeling that things are stagecrafted and a lot more artificial than a monks’ monastery would have been, let’s say, in the Iberian peninsula. Despite this crafted Christianity, there is a pleasant atmosphere at the place and it is possible to refresh with tapped water and shade en route towards the treelined path that circumnavigates the redrock tower itself. So, in spite of my natural scepticism and inbuilt negativity towards religious sites, especially these modern, simulated ecclesiasts, it was the impressive, architectural design of the temple that began turning me because it follows Inca traditions in so much as it blends in with its mountain landscape. There’s a mini steeple that reflects the mountain pillar that towers over the monastery, as if to say, we are just a part of the larger whole, respecting nature, which is of greater importance. I like that. Additionally, what probably strikes visitors more are the carvings. The doors into and out of the chapel are incomparable to any I’ve seen previously and although there may be biblical inspiration, there is also clearly a strong influence from the local nature, the flora and fauna and more markedly the local indigenous culture. All around the monastery, the pillars which hold up the roof over the edifice are both indigenously and ecclesiastically inspired. The carvings are marvellous examples of syncretisation in art, bridging and intermixing between the predominant cultures of the region. This in itself is inspiring and gave me a spiritual shove up a rung on the ladder towards deeper feelgood vibes.

After admiring the monastery, my lab and I began setting off in search of the mountain tower path. I even had thoughts of mountaineering or possibly rockclimbing, hitting the face of the monster, so-to-speak. The path is easily found and followed and there are several points of interest along its way. having already gotten myself into a positive vibration considering the temple, it was easy to lift the spirits further ascending the tower’s base through the woods before emerging above the treeline. As you walk it, take your time and keep your eyes open for various mini detours off the beaten track. There´s a walkway along to a statue that can be seen from below silhouetted on a shoulder of the mountain. He´s either a miner or a quarryman who cut a lot of the rock from the mountain to provide the primary raw material for the temple below. If it’s windy, tread firmly to reach him over the narrow precarious few metres that stretch over to him.

This first glimpse of the lowland panorama is stunning but a little further up there’s another worthwhile detour up to a naturally wind eroded tunnel, where someone placed a metallic map of the globe, showing the locations of these associated monasteries. It´s a beautiful spot to take a breather and bless your eyes with the natural wonders that surround you both through the wind tunnel but perhaps moreso with the vista of the Chiquitania region that stretches as far as the eye can see in every direction. This may elevate your inner self further still if you are in touch with the environment and your inner selves.

The track then soars above the trees and where the rock face turns vertical and no longer supports vegetation, the path clings to the base of the rockface, more exposed to winds and the blasting sunshine, so you’ll be as well to take more cautious steps to make the circumference around the base of the tower. The views are fantastic and the winds that swirl around the phallic rubric rock are refreshing under the beat of the yellow flameball above. Topographically, it’s an easy stretch of the legs but take care not to be distracted by the views and then trip on tree roots or unveven rock surfaces underfoot. As with all mountaineering, if you want to appreciate the vistas, stop first. Don’t continue walking and admiring the longsight surroundings. While you’re walking, you should be placing your feet carefully, therefore, looking down at the ground to take care with every step. This is basic essential advice for anyone who walks in the mountains or valley sides, gorges, etc. The reason is you have a long fall if you trip up here so you do what is necessary to avoid false stepping. Unfortunately, the path doesn’t make a complete circumference on this mountain pillar, so you´d have to undertake some dangerous and exposed rockface climbing  to edge round the last part or just take it easy and return the same way you came round. I was fortunate in that the clouds on the principal escarpment to the north stayed there, with the winds and the sun finally clearing them off the nearby ‘sierra’ from where the village’s water is supplied. As Suçuarana and I descended my mind turned towards the campsite I had found that morning and where I had pitched a tent.

There is an official campsite at the waterfall a couple of kilometres above the town. It is also easily found but if you don’t have a map just practise your Spanish and ask someone in the town for directions up to ‘Cascata de la Novia’. The river is really a wee burn or mountain stream but the water is cold and fresh with a small pool at the foot of the falls. It is shaded, reasonably clean and there is a felled tree with an enchanting hand carved design of various local fauna. It is a good alternative to the expensive, luxury resort or asking to stay in someone’s simple abode in the town, so if you can camp, this is really easy. It is a popular bathing spot with locals and daytrippers, especially in the early afternoon heat so don’t expect any real privacy and of course you should leave the place cleaner than you found it! I found Suçuarana’a new owner on my first day and lunched there near the train station with Rosi, who will also sell phone credits and may even recharge your batteries if you ask her kindly.

If you find her, you can ask her about the guy who gave her the brown Labrador. It was heartbreaking to leave my three year old, that I had bred and who also gave me a breed. She was the centre of three generations of Labradors but she had been cooped up in a mini apartment in Santa Cruz city for 17 months and that city really isn’t good for active breeds like Labradors. I had shown her the best spots, the lovely walks and she had learnt the way to both the redrock mountain tower with the most refreshing winds and the best natural bathing spot hidden in the woods in the community. We had found a family who took to her as she had taken to them, with several other dogs, plenty of children and a good-sized backyard. Although I knew she, my loyal Labrador bitch, would miss me, I also had the feeling that within a few weeks or moons, she would have adapted perfectly to that sublime location with such enchanting local nature. I also knew she was in capable hands with Rosi’s family. It was hard saying goodbye and leaving the town that had not only lifted my heart over the weekend but even harder because Chochís had also taken my beloved companion, Sussuarana.

 

Chochís lies on the mainline between Puerto Quijarro and Santa Cruz and most trains will stop there en route. Just enquire in the ticket offices and you can catch the right train to suit your plans.