Adventure is often associated with
wildlands and life outside of cities. Perhaps sporting practitioners are more
capable of explaining the essence of adventure but whatever we think of as
being adventurous, if you’re in search of a new experience to thrill your
adrenalin driven psyche, then ‘as Serras Canastras’ may just tickle your tango!
There are four main urban centres with several smaller villages that are
usually linked to this upland region in Minas Gerais. Although visitors are
found from all around the world, this enchanting mountain range still maintains
its original characteristics with thrilling vistas and a traditional
agricultural way of life. There is a central national park area where the restrictions
on access and regulations for visitors to follow are fairly standard for a
vulnerable ecological balance that is well managed and maintained.
Although the wilderness area extends well
beyond the national park, there are also a few tourist hotspots with many
family oriented activities and facilities. Depending on what you’re looking for,
‘As Canastras’ have everything to offer. The variations in vegetational
ecosystems are also seasonally oriented with a summer ‘rainy’ season and a
winter ‘dry’ season, in accordance with southern hemispheric meteorology. As a
result of various distinct ecosystems, there is an aviary abundance that is
dependent on both plant and flowerlife as well as reptillian and mammalian
species. Despite the intimidating upland tableau, with its surrounding towering cliff faces, it is possible to walk
or drive up onto the central plateau from where innumerable streams and rivers
can be sourced, including the famous Rio São Francisco, which has its own
statuesque shrine at the spring.
If you like waterfalls, there is no
shortage of spectacles to behold, especially in the summer when they drop off
the edge of mountain lips, like milk rolling off the flat top upland range.
Most of these beautiful rivers have naturally formed swimming pools both up
above, at the fallheads in the peaks, and below in the valleys that cut down into
the lowland farming areas from the foot of the escarpments. Either and both
give the opportunity for a delicious dip in fresh crystal clear waters that
make for a complete contrast to the scorching sunshine usually associated with
the region. The picture postcard waterfall is “A Casca D’Anta”, which has its
reputation firmly rooted for both its volume and height, with well-rounded
infrastructures and easy access for visitors. In addition to simple walking and
swimming, there is a strengthening diversity of activities and facilities
available to be sampled by the more adventurous holidaymakers, including
occasional extreme sports tournaments.
Like most Brazilian national parks, we have
pride in the diversity of animal species that are maintained within and around
the wilderness areas. Consequently, some of these species may be unaccustomed
to human life and dangerous, which means there are chances of spotting unusual
or rare animals, birds and reptiles. This happened to me on a benign afternoon
when I was returning to camp in a beautiful lowland valley alongside one of the
small rivers in the shadows of an astounding waterfall. I’d sighted a rare owl
species soon after sunup as we arrived on the plateau, which had just caught a
sizeable lizard in the morning light. This was spectacular enough, as I’d never
seen such hunting, other than in TV documentaries. So, when I asked a local
guide a few hours later, he explained that it was probably a ‘Coruja Buraqueiro’,
which sleeps hidden from light in the heat of the day in small holes or
treetrunks.
Anyway, having been enlightened, as I was
descending off the hill with my urbanised Labrador, she was a few metres ahead
of me and had just passed a 30 centimetre diameter hole amongst the dried
yellow grass in an open meadow. I thought there might be an awakening owl,
hidden down in there, and began to lower my head to have a look, when I saw
something move next to the hole, a “Cascavel”, a highly poisonous Rattlesnake.
It had already raised its head and it struck out in direction of my right leg.
Fortunately it didn’t bite although it had sent its venom into the air in an
instantaneous spitting action and as I stood taller and moved back from the metre
long or more serpent, it decided I wasn’t its prey and slyly slithered back
into its recluse.
My medium-sized dog, which had been
completely unaware of the reptile and the danger it posed, went back up the
hill to investigate what had caused such consternation from me. If I’d let her,
she might have been bitten and died in minutes from its powerful toxin but she
is well trained enough to follow my voice sufficiently to protect her. It was a
thrilling experience that highlighted only too well that wilderness areas are
replete with adrenalin fuelling sights that can be appreciated without getting
too close to any hazards. It may be worth remembering that most animals sense
perils more than we do and that more often than not, strange human activities
and noises are more than enough to dispel rare species sightings, let alone an
attack. In conclusion, it is advisable to leave your car, and get your natural
walking feet on the move, as you’re far more likely to appreciate more natural
wonders just silently making the most of what is there around you.
Adhering to traditional knowledge from
local residents and trained, practised guides is the most regular way to learn
from wilderness areas and the “Serras Canastras” is no exception to that broad
canon, although there are several publications available, which can be
referenced from, giving a better understanding of this thrilling mountainous
wilderness. There are rarely mountaineers making the most of countless
cliff-faces, sometimes paragliders and basejumpers take to the mountaintops and
more often trekking and watersports are increasing in popularity, particularly
on the southern edge of the park, near Delfinopolis, on what is occasionally
referred to as the ‘Paulista’ side, at a small part of the southern extreme of
‘O Triangulo Mineiro’. Fishing, waterskiing, canoeing and swimming are regular
amongst those who weekend near the reservoir, which is usually traversed by a
boat service from Cassia. Sacramento and Araxá, to the west and north
respectively, are also good cities from where to access the park, while São
Roque de Minas, Vargem Bonita and some smaller villages also provide good
stopping points on your path to the mountains, unmistakeable and widely known
as the Serras Canastras.
